Fashion idea: pattern bodice dresses with drapery "tie"

The shelf is decorated with a single-piece detail that resembles a men's tie. The originality consists in the fact that the tie itself originates (or ends?) Directly from the shelf part on the chest and is laid up to the neck with a fold, but so cleverly that an unknowing person will be surprised and interested - how is it all arranged there? I hope that you, experts and lovers of sewing and cutting, will be interested in solving such a problem. So let's open the veil of secrecy!

Let's take a closer look.

On the sketch, we see a bodice that is close enough to the figure, it is without visible darts on the shelf, which is cut out along the oblique. The neck is treated with a shirt collar with a cutting stand, which is covered with a tie loop. The tie, in turn, continues to the centers of the chest, laying down folds. And we can assume that it is in them, in these folds, that the formative tucks have been translated.

Go to the simulation.

Pattern bodice dresses with drapery

For the simulation, we need a base pattern of the adjacent silhouette. We will model only the bodice, from the waist up.

We will translate the chest dart to the waist, down. Pre-cutting the part of the shelf as shown in the figure and then turning the part, closing the chest tuck and at the same time opening it around the waist.

This is what should happen. Next, outline the cut line from the top point of the middle to the top of the dart. Cut, not reaching, 2 mm, and open the tuck in a new place in the center of the neck.

In the following picture you can see what happened. Adjust the bottom line (waist) smoother curve.

Next, you need to finish a rectangle with a long rectangle equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back (measure the sections of the drawings of the shelf and back, in fact, ½ measure the neck girth plus gain).

The width is equal to the width of the stand of the collar, or slightly less, multiplied by 2 (ie, 2.5-3 cm * 2 = 5-6 cm). This tie detail encompassing the neck (tie loop). It will need to be tied up, having turned its face inward along the fold line along (connecting the cuts), and turn it out, as if it were a belt.

The next step is to trim the extra fabric in the area where the tie knot is formed, so as to hide the treatment under the knot, which we will cut out and sew separately. Remove literally 2-3 cm, i.e. half the width of the knot.

To build a shirt collar we need the length of the neck (from the drawing of the shelf and back).

On the x-axis, lay the length of the neck, on the y-axis, the width of the cutting stand and the width of the collar departure, in accordance with the drawing.

So looks pattern shelves in a turn. It is more convenient to cut this way, using the full pattern. We will have it on the fabric by a scythe.

After cutting the details of our product, the strip and back (which we take completely out of the base pattern) and the processing of the shoulder seams, we will create folds simulating a tie by hand, close all of the processed part of the knot from above. Pay attention that the operating fastener is on a back. The collar is therefore split.



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