Sometime in childhood for the father he assembled a primitive pulsed charger with a capacitor decoupling in the primary transformer circuit (4 microfarads x 400 in). It was called pulsed because the charge was carried out by a modified semi-sinusoid, while at the expense of a capacitor and an additional light bulb (resistor), there was a discharge into the “idle” half-period with a power of 0.1 of the charging current. Batteries with this rectifier served for 5 years (for the Soviet time - a decent period). This year, when the charger was needed, it turned out that it had become unusable - the contacts rusted, began to “punch” into the case. Due to the fact that the enthusiasm of amateur radio over the years diminished, I decided to buy a pulse machine - an automatic, so that there was less hassle - I turned it on (when necessary), turned it off (when the charge stopped), and forgot to the next need. The choice of pulse chargers is quite large, but it seems that the Chinese friends successfully completed the Danish or Italian radio circuits, with the result that modern devices differ from each other only in the build quality.In many manuals, the complete nonsense is replicated: “... the device automatically clears the terminals from sulfates ...” - apparently, people who do not know the difference between the terminals and the battery anode reprint this nonsense (Pb2SO4 + H2SO4 + O 2PbSO4 + H2O). This process, which increases with the discharge, causes destruction of the electrode, and a pulsed charge like removes or reduces sulphation. So, there are no fundamental differences between pulsed charging devices - automatic (everyone writes about seven- or nine-stage charging, in my A glance is purely an advertising move, all the more there is an opportunity for further flight of thought, such as twenty-stage, thirty-stage, etc.), therefore, based on the power of the battery, you need to choose what is cheaper. In my case, it is a device with a ridiculous name for the Aggressor charger (AGR / SBC-080 Brick) at a price of 02.2016. 2750 rubles with desulphation function and charge current up to 8A, designed to charge batteries up to 160 Ah.The device looks good in appearance - a good thick (but terribly smelly) plastic, because of a well-fitted rubber gasket there are no complaints about the seams, the device is intuitive understandable, but there is one "BUT" - there is no indication of voltage and current. In some cases, the “winter” charge with a current of 8A automatically jumps to a charge of 2A (motorcycle battery), while the LEDs show the charge, and the additionally connected ammeter shows its absence. Chargers with indication of current and voltage are an order of magnitude more expensive - within $ 200, meanwhile, a simple refinement of any, I emphasize, any charger using an ampere-voltmeter, say, for 250 - 300 rubles, will turn your device into a more attractive and convenient the equipment is used. The ampervoltmeter can be located either in the charger itself (if there is space for it), or outside it in a special box by connecting it to the wires that go to the battery for charging. For the selection of places, we will conduct an audit of the charger, for which we press the side plastic lining and unscrew 6 screws. Removing the lid, you can see that the ampervoltmeter cannot be placed on the front panel - otherwise you will have to change the board. To output an ampere voltmeter to the back panel, there are several places I chose closer to the charging cables.the location of the ampervoltmeter. Cutting the ampervoltmeter case with a little nippers, positioned the device as conveniently as possible inside the case (slightly to the left of the centerline), then gently turned the charger over, keeping the place where the ampeervoltmeter would be installed in the charger case and outlined the hole. Further, the case of home appliances - in 15 minutes on the inside of the delineated rectangle, we drilled about 40 holes with a thin drill with a drill or screwdriver, using the same drill to unite them and free the window for the ammeter-voltmeter. Having corrected the edges of the file, set the ampere-voltmeter in the window and secured it with hot melt. The ampervoltmeter is firmly and fairly firmly placed in the window, does not protrude beyond the limits of the limiter, while almost all the information on the rear has been preserved.Next, cutting the (-) negative cable of the charger (black), solder the black wire to the top ammeter (the ammeter has two thick wires - red and black), and to the bottom of the wire going to the battery - a red ammeter wire and black rovod voltmeter. To the bare (+) positive wire of the charger we solder the red and yellow wire of the voltmeter (the wires of the voltmeter three are yellow, red and black, they are thinner). Soldering is closed with shrinking or tape, and you can start charging. Connecting the terminals (+) and (-) to the battery, you can see its voltage on the display of the ampeurvoltmeter, and the current strength of the charge will appear after turning on the device and selecting mode.
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